We arrived in Germany on August 21st. Our Airbnb was outside the center of town but very convenient to the U-Bahn (metro). We were delighted to find sun and warm weather!
The next morning, we headed into town on the metro. Donna was eager to have ein bratwurst mit frites after many years. Another “madeleine moment” for her! And if you know Sam’s predilection for any type of sausage, you can imagine that he was only too happy to join her! Two happy campers!
Sam’s grandmother, Ida Elisabeth Lange Harrison, came from Hamburg. And although we couldn’t come up with any relatives to connect with, we wanted to experience this glorious city. One of the first things we noticed was the abundance of some pretty spectacular modern architecture.
Our Hamburg Walkabout started at the Hauptbahnhof – the main train station. One side is Neo-Renaissance and the other side is modernistic, glass and cast-iron. Both sides are ogle-worthy!
After a stroll past the Rat Haus (City Hall–they call ’em as they see ’em), we headed to the Apple Store – yes, really! Donna’s iPhone seems to be dying and, happily, Apple was on our way to two sights we had on our agenda: The Binnenalster, an artificial lake in Hamburg’s Inner City and Jungfernstieg, a busy shopping street that was previously well known as the place to take your unmarried daughter for a stroll in search of a prospective groom. Remember, these were the days before Tinder! Jungfernsteig is now an absolutely lovely promenade lined with designer shops!
Binnenstaler is the smaller of two artificial lakes in Hamburg and has its own Jet d’Eau!
After making an appointment for the next day at Apple, we continued on to the St. Nikolai Memorial. This poignant site is the tall spire remaining of St. Nikolai Church – in 1874 this was the tallest structure in the world at 484 feet. After Operation Gomorrah, a bombing raid by the Allies in 1943, much of central Hamburg was in ruins. Remarkably, the spire of this church remained standing. The base of St Katherine’s tower is the only remaining part of the original church, built in the 13th Century. After the war, the decision was made to create a museum and memorial in the spire. A glass elevator takes you up to a viewing platform at 249 feet where you can overlook the entire city and see photographs of the destruction from the war. It was a very moving experience.
The next day, on our way back to to Apple for a new battery for Donna’s phone, we strolled past the Rat Haus again, only to discover a concert going on! Performed by the Hamburg Police Band, it was just ton of fun! The conductor was the star performer really. She appeared to be enjoying herself tremendously! And she created such a feeling of almost giddy joy! She grinned and bounced and gestured and her musicians were right with her! The keyboardist shimmied his shoulders, the brass section sashayed, the percussionists shook, rattled and rolled! And the audience smiled and swayed and clapped! Here we were, in Hamburg, Germany, on a warm and sunny Friday afternoon bopping along to a band concert by an amazing group of musicians with a conductor who emanated her joy in bringing us this music! It was truly a moment to savor!
The Rathaus itself, is an architectural Must-See! Built between 1886 & 1897 it is a Neo-Renaissance palace with more rooms than Buckingham Palace! The exterior is adorned with sculpture, paintings and Hamburg’s coat of arms.
After the visit to Apple for a new battery (which did not solve the problem), we scheduled a boat trip in the harbor. Unfortunately, although we requested the tickets using English, the ticket seller neglected to mention that the tour was only in German. After only a few minutes, it was clear that we would only be able to enjoy the visuals, because we didn’t understand a word of the German. The good news is that the guide, apparently was not that engaging or funny, because he only got one laugh in the entire 90 minute tour! One woman slept during most of it! We were able to enjoy the cruise through the canals and the harbor, seeing the sights from a different perspective.
Tomorrow we head to Wiesbaden, Donna’s former home. Fingers crossed that it is still recognizable!
We are missing you all!
Love,
Sam, Donna & LuLu
August 23, 2019
LuLu's Outta Town 