Treviso – Canals & Charm with Fewer Tourists!

There is no certainty that we would have even gone to Treviso had we not seen the NYTimes article: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/10/travel/venice-treviso-overtourism.html?searchResultPosition=3

But the idea of a medieval walled city with canals and fewer tourists was an enticement to us for sure! Donna’s memories of crowds and dive bombing pigeons in Piazza San Marco made Treviso seem quite appealing. So, off we went!

But it must be said that one of the best things about Treviso was our Airbnb host, Guerrino Rossi! A compact man, full of ebullient energy, he hauled bags up the three flights of stairs (despite nudging into our age group), welcomed LuLu with cuddles and made us feel immediately at home in 500 year old house where he has lived for 59 years – since he was 6 years old! Our flat was DEFINITELY NOT IKEA! It felt authentically Italian (for a host of a certain age, I suppose, as well as a guest!).

The next great service that Guerrino provided was to recommend free parking in front of the police station. That felt safe! However, after Sam parked the car and headed back to the flat, his phone died, leaving him without a map or phone. While he was trying to find his way, Donna started panicking! He was gone over an hour and a half and was unreachable! Ben suggested using iCloud Find my Phone, but with no password to allow access, that was a no-go. After wandering around in search of Sam, and nearly getting lost herself, Donna realized she needed help. Calling the police seemed too grave, so she went back and asked Guerrino what to do. He responded by reassuring her that it is safe and then walking with her to where he told Sam to park the car and so it was. Twenty minutes in 90˚ heat! No Sam! About 3/4 of the way back to the flat, Guerrino’s wife, Graziella, called to say Sam had returned.Whew! Big relief! Benjamin called back and instructed us to add the Find My Friends app on our phones so that won’t happen again. We are supposing that even if the phone has died, the app can use the Apple watch to locate the person.

The next day was our only day to do any sightseeing. So we headed out to explore the heart of this lovely 15th century walled city. After a delicious lunch at Da Pino on the Piazza dei Signori of pizza and grilled branzino to die for, we wandered through the shady gallerias and across canals on stone and iron bridges. Under the loggia where the upper class Cavalieri used to convene, we found mosaics and frescoes from the 13th century, recently restored, after being severely damaged by Allied bombing in 1944.

We discovered watermills, formerly used to grind the wheat for bread, but now providing energy for underwater lighting of the island that houses the open air fish market! Such ambiance!

And hidden away in a tiny galleria, off of Via Calmaggiore is La Fontana delle Tette, the Fountain of Tits! This fountain was commissioned by a city magistrate in the 1500’s to celebrate the end of a severe drought. Originally, white wine flowed from one breast, red wine from the other. Nowadays, it’s just water, although on feast days, apparently she dispenses wine!

Treviso is the heart of prosecco production, the home of Benetton and reputed to be where tiramisu was born. But, given the extreme heat we were experiencing, gelato seemed more appealing than wine or sweaters or even cake! On Guerrino’s recommendation – and because it’s a tenant in his building – we went to Dassie, on the Via Sant’Augustino. Voted best gelato in Italy in 2018, we are believers! Donna loved both lemon and mango. Sam FLIPPED (chocolate, heads or tails) for the dark chocolate, which itself had won an award this year. It is open until midnight in the summer and is always hopping!

But despite the tranquility of Treviso, and the lovely hospitality or Guerrino and Graziella, we are still going to Venice! Sam has never been there and it’s a Must See for an architect. So, tomorrow, off we go!

Thinking of you all,

Sam, Donna & LuLu

June 27, 2019