What Can You Say About Venice?

Well, to start with, it is CHOCK-A-BLOCK with tourists! And Venice was the first place we have been to on this trip where we heard a lot of English being spoken. There were other languages as well, including a lot of Italian. But perhaps 50% of the folks we observed (or heard) spoke English.

Venice is a Floating City, built on more than 100 small islands. However the buildings are not actually built on the islands. They were constructed on wooden platforms atop wooden stakes driven into the ground. Frequent flooding has always been a problem due to the fact that the city has sunk five inches in the last century. But climate change, rising sea levels and huge cruise ships – with huge water displacement and engine vibrations – put the city at even more risk. Much engineering work is being undertaken to save this unique city.

However, despite the crowds and the heat and the humidity, Venice remains her seductive self, a not-to-be-missed experience.

We arrived in the afternoon after a short drive from Treviso. The flat we rented is in a residence hotel in Quarto d’Altino, conveniently located near the train station. We took the train into Santa Lucia terminus in Venice – right on the Grand Canal!

We headed immediately into the Jewish Ghetto, on the advice of our concierge, Luisa. Tranquil and relatively free from crowds, we strolled along the stone walkways, down narrow alleys, and over bridges. We found nearly deserted piazzas with local residents walking their dogs, chatting with neighbors, or relaxing at small bars with their aperitivo. Because it was Shabbat, nearly everything was closed, but we made a note to head back to Gam Gam’s, a Jewish restaurant that had an enticing menu.

In our wanderings we discovered this memorial to the Holocaust is on the Campo di Ghetto Nuovo. The bronze bas relief sculpture is one of seven panels by Arbit Blatas, who lost his mother in the Holocaust. It is suspended in front of wooden slats carved with the names of Venetian victims of the Nazis. These slats represent the train cars in which the Jews were transported. A poignant remembrance of a tragic time.

LuLu’s first experience of crossing a canal on a wooden bridge seemed to really frighten her. So the first day, we carried her across most of them. But by the second day, she was an old hand and had no qualms! She has become accustomed to lying at our feet while we have a meal. And almost every restaurant has offered her a bowl of water. She is definitely the most popular girl in our group!

The next day, after missing a train and a long wait for another, we arrived in Venice in the afternoon. After a lovely lunch of sardines at Gam Gam’s, we headed out to catch the vaporetto, or water bus. This is the boat Venezians take on their watery commute! Mouths agape, we passed beautiful churches, amazing old palazzos and ritzy hotels. Counterclockwise, we took the Numero Due line (Grand Canal) to the west end of the line and then got off and took the Numero Uno out and back around (harbor and southern canal).

Unhappily, we arrived at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection too late, but vow to come back on the next Italian leg of this odyssey. It is housed in her home on the Grand Canal, the beautiful Palazzo Venier dei Leoni.

After another delightful meal sitting on the edge of a small canal (Messner), we headed back to the train station, fully comprehending why Venice is “over-touristed”. And planning to come back later to add to the congestion!

Next we are off to Split, Croatia. We are looking forward to some beach time as well as some sight seeing!

Love to all,

Sam, Donna & LuLu

July 1, 2019