Loving Lucca

Again, seeking to avoid crowds, we decided to head to Lucca instead of Florence. To be honest, we knew we would not get the art available in Florence, but our eyeballs were actually nearly burned out after the Vatican! And it was still SO HOT! And we were just a little tired of being tourists! So we were looking forward to a slower pace with charm.

Our Airbnb reservation was in a town called Aquilea, about 20 minutes northwest of Lucca. Up a narrow, curvy road we discovered a tiny village and our flat was in the centro – right behind the bar and the tiny grocery run by the family who own our flat. Checking in was a neighborhood endeavor! The Airbnb host, the signora who owns the property (with a can of lubricating spray), her daughter, the father of the Airbnb host – everyone trooped in to make sure we understood everything and to confer about repairing the window, which wouldn’t close. Needless to say, Donna’s Italian was not up to hardware and window repair discussions! But all was solved in a few minutes and the signora suggested that we dine upstairs in the bar. She warned us that it would be a simple meal because they were hosting a card championship that night, starting at 9:00 PM. So at 7:00, we went upstairs and had home grown melon, some of the best prosciutto ever, wine (Donna) from a local vineyard and some wonderful bread from a local baker. A perfect meal on another toasty hot day in Italy!

The following day, the heat broke a bit with some rain – light at first, and later a torrent. We toodled down the hill to Lucca. A Renaissance walled city, Lucca is perfect to explore on foot, especially since most streets do not allow cars! Lucca was one of the most famous producers of silk of the Western world from the end of 12th century. Its relative wealth allowed the city to exercise political power and remain an independent city state for over 700 years. Lucca’s monumental mura (wall) was built around the old city in the 16th and 17th centuries and remains in almost perfect condition. Over 4 kilometers around, the top of the wall is now a tree-lined footpath with joggers, bicyclists, picnickers and the sacrosanct passegiata- evening stroll.  Although both days we were there, there were few people out due to the rain. 

After a wonderful lunch at Il Mecente, we found a lovely and relaxed ambiance in Lucca. We wandered from piazza to piazza, ogling churches and towers and lovely narrow pedestrian streets. It was charming and not too taxing. A perfect day and just what we needed!

Our second day in Lucca we had scheduled a class on pasta making. Piero and Antoinetta own a small piece of property that they inherited from her father. Piero is a cowboy aficionado and a horseman. Although he has never been to the United States, he has enough cowboy regalia and memorabilia in his home to start a small museum. Hats, saddles, chaps, lariats, movie posters, pictures, pictures and more pictures. He is effusively outgoing and loves to talk! But because he speaks very little English, we communicated through a translation device with audio in- and out-put. Very helpful!

Antoinetta, his loving and patient wife, taught the pasta class, with the help of Natalia, a translator. Antoinetta is also very friendly, outgoing and generous. She had everything set up for us on a huge table at the back of the living room. The flour was organic and the eggs were from her own hens. She talked us through combining the ingredients, kneading the pasta dough and rolling, rolling, rolling until the dough was so thin you could see your hand through it. (It took a LOT of rolling!) We cut it into squares (maccaroni) and moved into the kitchen to prepare the sauce and the bruschetta. Donna got to chop the herbs for the tomato sauce (San Marzano tomatoes from Antoinetta’s garden!). Sam worked on the two different bruschetta – one with tomatoes, garlic and basil and one with anchovies, garlic and parsley.

Also at the class were two lovely women from England and a Polish family with 5 of the best behaved children we’ve seen in a long time. Lots of love in that family! It was a collegial and friendly group and we so enjoyed ourselves!

Our last day in Tuscany, we decided to head into Florence. But we had both seen a couple of items in Lucca that we wanted to purchase before we left Italy. Unhappily, because it was a Monday, the stores do not open until afternoon. So, we skipped Florence and became consumers! Later we sat and enjoyed an aperitivo and then went back to our new favorite restaurant in Lucca – Il Mecente. Here they only have a fish menu on the day that they have fresh fish. They are the only restauranteurs in Lucca who do not serve frozen fish! They also have a mushroom forager and on some days there is a mushroom menu! We had the most fabulous mushroom salad ever!

Our next stop is St. Rémy de Provence! Our lovely landlady, Delphine, has agreed to store the bag of winter clothes we have been hauling around, so we will go there for one night. Then we head to Paris and our flight to Gothenburg (Göteburg) to pick up the new car! Such excitement!

We send our love to all of you!

Sam, Donna & LuLu

July 29, 2019