Christmas in Provence

Much to our chagrin, the commercial onslaught of Christmas felt eerily similar to the US. About the beginning of November, trees and tinsel and lights started appearing in the super market and the drugstore. So, we weren’t sure if we would experience a real Provençal Christmas or a bastardized French version of an American commercial celebration. 

Then, about the middle of November, we noticed municipal employees in cherry pickers hanging copious strands of lights along the narrow, curvy pedestrian streets in the historic center of St Rémy. A huge Christmas tree went up in front of the church. The plane trees along the rocade  that circles the historic center were given their own gown of lights. Shops all over town began hanging greens over the doorways. And it began to feel very French, very Provençal.

The weekend of December 7th and 8th was the official kick-off of the Saison de Noël. Saturday evening was the Fête des Lumières.  All the lights we had observed being strung were glowing and all of the shops were open late into the evening serving Apèros – mulled wine, hot chocolate, champagne, crackers and nuts and nibbles, soup, crèpes, candy, treats of every description. Folks wandered in and out of the shops, chatting with neighbors and shop keepers, getting ideas for cadeaux. And we delightedly joined in!

On Sunday, we went to afternoon tea at the Hotel Gounod. Seated in the warm and cozy lounge we enjoyed tea and cocoa, pain d’épice, chocolate covered candied orange peel, sablés and gingerbread men. All sweet, no savory, much to Donna’s dismay!

La Fête des Lumières in St. Rémy

The next week, we drove to Aix-en-Provence to experience their world famous Marché de Noël.  The broad pedestrian thoroughfare, Cours Mirabeau, had been transformed into a village of vendors in tiny cabins. From the majestic fountain on Place Cézanne all the way to the Chapelle des Oblates, Cours Mirabeau was awash in lights and commerce. All the local products were showcased – cheese, wine & Champagne, foodstuffs, olive oil soap, lavender sachets, candy, handmade toys, silk scarves and clothing, jewelry, art work of all sorts. There was also a Foire des Santons with several vendors. Santons are the clay figurines molded after local villagers that were used to portray the Nativity scene during the period when religion was banished during the French Reign of Terror in 1793. (More on santons later.) The lights and ambient music of this vibrant Marché put us in a festive mood! We purchased four cuisses de canard confit (duck thighs preserved in their own fat) for a planned cassoulet.

But there was more to come! December 21st and 22nd was the Marché de Noël in St. Rèmy. And it was as small and intimate as the Aix-en-Provence Marché was large and spectacular. A small village of vendor’s cabins had been erected in the Place Jules Pellissier in front of the Hôtel de Ville. Again, food and wine and cocoa, sweets, olive wood products, soap and lavender products and throngs of St. Remois socializing, eating and drinking. 

Saturday evening there was a Pastorale presented – the Nativity story told by local actors and musicians, but set in Provence! There were gendarmes, bar keepers, the local mail carrier, angels and Joseph leading Mary to the inn on a live donkey. Unhappily, we arrived late and could only really see Gabriel, perched in a tree, narrating the scene. Next time we’ll get there earlier!

Then Sunday evening was Le Feu de Saint Jean d’Hiver. Dancers in Provençal costumes performed several typical folk dances, accompanied by pipe and drums. The dancers were aged about 6 years old into their 20’s. It was very crowded, but we were able to see the entire program, especially enjoying the utter joy expressed by the younger dancers. It was contagious!

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Then, onto vin chaud and more socializing! We were delighted to bump into people we knew and wish everyone Joyeuses Fêtes!

Meanwhile at our apartment, we had been busily preparing for the arrival of Benjamin and Rachel! Stollen had been baked, gifts had been purchased, lights had been strung and a sapin de Noël had been decorated – thanks to Rainey who sent a dozen handmade wax ornaments! 

Christmas in Provence Part Deux, coming soon!